Global Development: Views from the Center
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September 25, 2006
Poverty is so Hot for Fall (and Why That's a Good Thing)
Posted by Lindsay Morgan at 01:46 PM
When I told my co-workers I was going to an event called "Fashion Fights Poverty" (co-sponsored by the United Nations Association of the National Capital Area), the reaction was a mixture of amusement and interest on the one hand, and distaste and ridicule on the other. Those of us who work in development are apt to react the same way when we see celebrities posing with poor African children. Why does the growing trendiness of poverty make the development community squirm?
The event to promote socially-conscious designers was held at an upscale clothing store in an up-and-coming part of DC. The room was crowded with expensive clothing and photographers. Music played as beautiful people sipped cosmos and passed out copies of the Millennium Development Goals Report (pdf). A young woman in stilettos strutted as if on a catwalk next to a display of beads made by women in rural Uganda.
It's easy to mock the incongruity of it all. The idea that haute couture can help a family struggling to survive in Bangladesh is the stuff of Stephen Colbert and Saturday Night Live. It's also an intoxicating change of pace for those of us used to working behind a computer all day (let's face it: a fashion show is cooler than running regressions).
But all that pretension and exclusivity can illicit disgust too, and we may find ourselves deriving a strange satisfaction from the assumption that their commitment to the poor is shallow at best, and that as soon as something else cool comes along they'll jump off the poverty train faster than a bandit in a John Wayne movie. My colleague Todd Moss captured this unease well in his controversial satirical posting: So Many Fabulous Ways to Save Africa.
But unless I'm wrong, there's something else at work here too. Beyond the amusement or disgust, part of what we see at an event like Fashion Fights Poverty is our own dilemma magnified: the dilemma of being rich people in a world of want, of being well-fed when so many are hungry, of being people who amass possessions while others struggle to survive. And part of what we feel, then, is guilt.
What is the answer? To forego nice cars, expensive clothing, that trip to Starbucks in the morning and settle for Folgers instead? Maybe. Who knows? But enjoying these things does not necessarily make our concern any less genuine, and that brings me back to the trendy and fashionable crowd from the other night.
I think Fashion Fights Poverty is a good thing. It shows people are aware that something is tragically wrong in the world and are trying to find ways that they can help. Evidence of this trend seems to be everywhere. Last week Sir Richard Branson announced that he would put $3 billion in personal profits toward development of energy resources that do not contribute to global warming. His was just one of several announcements coming out of the Clinton Global Initiative, a meeting of the wealthy and famous and philanthropic in New York. Or check out the latest Marie Claire--the fashion magazine's article "Red, Hot and Blue" features photos of Brookings senior fellow Susan Rice (read her paper Global Poverty, Weak States and Insecurity) modeling upscale clothes along with Fareed Zakaria of Newsweek and James Bennet of Atlantic Monthly, among others. Talk about the politics of cool.
If the movement to fight poverty among the famous and fashionable (and among the masses of young people who pay attention to them) proves to be just a trend, it will not be because they stopped caring about the poor. It will be because development experts--who work tirelessly studying and writing and knocking on the doors of the policy elite of Washington--forgot to offer them real, scalable solutions. CGD's Rich World Poor World series to educate non-specialists in the basics of development is a start--it can help the newly-interested understand the complex nature of the problems and the complex nature of trying to solve them. The Commitment to Development Index takes it a step further, by ranking the rich. But we must do more. Otherwise the movement will languish because, beyond signing their names to the One Campaign and buying an occasional pound of fair trade coffee, genuinely concerned people simply do not know what to do.
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Comments
As volunteer leader of the Columbus, OH. ONE Campaign, I can't tell you how many people have gotten involved with our group, or signed the ONE Declaration, or had their interest piqued by Bono or Brad Pitt or Coldplay, etc.
It's easy to be cynical about pop stars pontificating on complex issues such as fair trade and debt relief, but if we're going to make these issues front and center, if we're going to make them resonate with the public we need to embrace what is often heart-felt passion from celebrities that have the power to move many through their movies and music.
Not every pop star that wears a white band will be advocating for trade justice in ten years time, and not every soccer mom that signs the ONE Declaration will be thinking about the Global Fund when her daughter is ready to graduate college, but if they've taken even a little bit of action, for even a small portion of their lives, it adds to the tidal wave awareness and advocacy that we need to build an international movement.
We simply cannot afford to be cynical. Just as we cannot afford to be partisan. We need everyone we can get.
Most will move on with their lives and forget about these issues, but a few might just become experts, or they might raise money, or lobby Congress. And for those few, it is worth it.
Posted by: Mike Beaumont at September 26, 2006 08:46 AM
Part of the reason such disasterous errors were made regarding "domocratization of Iraq" is that enthuiastic people did not understand what the world is all about- or how important step by step capacity building is. While it is good that celebrities are getting on board regarding global poverty, those of us who have long experience need to do all we can to help them understand the complexities so that they do good and no harm. Donovan Russell
Posted by: Donovan Russell at September 26, 2006 09:48 AM
I don't agree with this statement: "If the movement to fight poverty among the famous and fashionable (and among the masses of young people who pay attention to them) proves to be just a trend, it will not be because they stopped caring about the poor. It will be because development experts--who work tirelessly studying and writing and knocking on the doors of the policy elite of Washington--forgot to offer them real, scalable solutions."
I agree that scalable solutions are immensely important in maintaining the momentum of the fight but underneath that "momentum" there must be an iron will to stand against the powers that cause and promulgate the problem, regardless of trends. Trends come and go in America and elsewhere because we like the change, we like not having to really dig in and fight because it's too hard. We live in a culture where problems are solved in 30 min sitcoms, Starbucks are on every corner and our endless wants and desires can be satisfied. And yet we still want more.
Events that bring awareness are necessary and important I only hope that these events reinforce self sacrifice in the face of the evil they seek to combat.
Posted by: Scott Irwin at September 26, 2006 09:57 AM
Great blog post Lindsay! It's easy to forget how much of a role guilt plays into the desire for social justice. The guilt is not "wrong" per se, but merely an acknowledgement of the great fortune we have to be born into a life of relative comfort ("the birth lottery" as Warren Buffet calls it).
The key (as Mike points out below) is to translate that guilt into something positive. That's what you guys try to do at CGD and if 1 out of every 1000 people that wear the white wristband do the same, then we're on our way to building real coalitions for change!
Posted by: Dan K at September 26, 2006 12:31 PM
I would love to think that the celebrities are doing it NOT for their egos or their backers ego but for the RIGHT reason for compassion and devotion. I would be sad beyond belief if they were doing it for self promotion by taking advantage of something for advertising some product. Richard Branson IS doing it for the right reason and I applaud with all my heart the position he and Warren Buffet and Bill & Melinda Gates are taking.
Sincerely
Garvin Brown
Mahatma Gandhi Awareness
Queensland Australia
Posted by: Garvin Brown at September 26, 2006 04:53 PM
And so what do you think about GAP going RED?
http://pienso.typepad.com/pienso/2006/09/the_gap_goes_re.html
Posted by: Pienso at September 28, 2006 12:48 AM
It is disappointing that many become aware of development issues only because their favorite celeb visited a developing country, but let's face it: many of those to whom the celebrities appeal couldn't otherwise be reached. If one were to quantify awareness as a result of celebrity influence, this debate would not exist (assuming the goal is awareness, which I think it is). Look at one event: The rockstars of Live Aid in '85 raised 40-50 million in just a few days. It was viewed by an estimated 1.5 billion in 100 countries.
Celebrities shouldn't be discouraged because they are not economists. I agree with Donovan that they need to work with experts so as not to do any damage but do we need to highlight the fact that they don't understand everything? What is the risk- will Brad Pitt suddenly be elected to replace Wolfowitz? (and again, what would the risk be?) Even if celebrities can't muster up the "iron will" to stay focused for the long-term, at least they have influenced others...
Posted by: Kelly Tobin at September 28, 2006 01:31 AM
Thank you for a very interesting perspective! Perhaps the day is coming when well-meaning development experts together with famous, fashionable and “fabulous” people, and especially the governments of economically-challenged regions of the world, will make a concerted effort - through a stroke of genius – to implement sustainable poverty-reduction strategies. As Paul Cezanne put it: “Genius is the ability to renew one’s emotions in daily experience.”
Posted by: Aggie Alando-Hoffer at September 28, 2006 10:37 AM
It doesn't bother me at all that stars promote social issues - I think it is great.
However, concerning fashion, the writer states, "But enjoying these things does not necessarily make our concern any less genuine..." This is the thing that bothers me. I would have a problem wearing $500 shoes, or a $3,000 suit. If I have that kind of money, I should be giving it for a better purpose, rather than just clothes.
However, I have a TV, a car, I buy chocolate, and costume jewelry, I keep very warm in winter, and cool in summer. Where does one draw the line in spending, vs. assisting the planet? What can saving $470 on shoes buy? Can it save lives? Probably.
On the other hand, one could argue fashion as art, and doesn't art have value? It is expensive to produce, is it not?
However, when people are dying, status symbols and ridiculously expensive food, clothing, and liquor, etc., make me cringe. Wearing expensive clothing also creates a clear separation between "us" from "them". It will be difficult to achieve economic equality when a true belief in real equality is not there.
Not easy questions.
Posted by: Lara Fischer at October 7, 2006 02:27 PM
Good blog and a needed perspective. I confess to squirming a bit when celebs get involved, not because they don't understand economics, but because the road to hell IS often paved with good intentions. I particularly object to celebrity tours of Africa which perpetuate the myth that Africans are helpless and need rich people from America to fly in and "save" them. On the other hand I give Bono credit for doing his homework and drawing attention to less glamorous issues like trade and debt which are a big part of the story behind the skinny children and which are often ignored by the other celebs. I think the key is for development professionals to work with well intentioned celebs to make sure their contribution is positive.
Posted by: Jeffrey Barnes at October 10, 2006 03:04 PM
As the co-founder of Fashion Fights Poverty (this is Michael Dumlao, the Creative Director), allow me first to express how honored I am that our initiative has contributed to what I believe is an exciting and very necessary debate on the role of fashion, design and - dare I say, consumption - in our collective responsibility to work towards eradicating poverty.
Fashion Fights Poverty is about two things: one, it rewards designers and non-profits who employ ethical means and practices in their design and manufacturing processes to produce products that are not only intended to promote economic development and the betterment of a given community, but products that are also attractive and commercially viable.
Two, it is about responsible consumerism and providing equally attractive marketing and branding platforms (such as the "Dress Responsibly" look book and style guide) between ethical designers and the burgeoning population of socially-conscious shoppers. By focusing on the consumer (and ethical consumption almost as a form of civic duty), FFP hopes to extend dialogue and PARTICIPATION in poverty eradication beyond the beltway's oft-cynical think tanks to include members of other communities and industries.
If we are indeed following any trends here, it is not so much the celebrity-adopts-an-orphan trend, but these:
1) the very tangible reality of public-private-partnerships as the engine of development (consider the Gates foundation and global health);
2) micro-enterprise and its particular role in empowering women and their surrounding communities;
3) and the role of consumer choice in affecting policy.
At Fashion Fights Poverty, we do our best to challenge the cynicism that fashion, entertainment, the culture industry and those who consume its products (as in, everyone) has no place in the vibrant dialogue and activity against global problems. FFP is about action and promoting positive behavior. As I said during the Look book launch mentioned by Lindsay's article, we are not telling people to stop shopping. Rather, we are showing opportunities to do so responsibly and, in the process, engage organizations and enterprises which use fashion, design and creativity as a means of addressing some of the most important issues of our time.
For more information on FFP, log onto www.fashionfightspoverty.org. Hope to see you all next Friday, October 27th!
Posted by: Michael Dumlao at October 19, 2006 02:08 AM

